Sunday, September 23, 2012

Weeks of Sept 10-22/12


Thank you so much to each and every one who responded to my recent epistle telling of random adjustments to my life here in Nanjing.  Some of you asked about my work.  Now that I have been able to meet some of my basic needs, food in my belly and a roof over my head, I am now much more able to focus on my teaching. 

The British Columbia Academy is a grade 10-12 sub-school within Nanjing Foreign Language School (NFLS).  It is a private school, many say the best in Nanjing perhaps, some say, the best in Jiangsu Province.  Middle class and wealthy parents, or perhaps with help from the grandparents, have paid handsomely, 60,000 Rmb Yuan for a year’s tuitition(about $160 = 1000 Rmb Yuan), with the hope of going on to one of the best Chinese universities, or preferably, to a university in Canada or USA.  NFLS goes from grade 8-12 in the International Baccalaureate (IB) stream, or the English A-level stream, whereas BCA offers the British Columbia curricula.  Education is very important to Chinese people.  Apparently a good wage for a teacher might be about 80,000.  If both parents work, one salary would pay for the child’s education, and the other wage would pay for everything else. 

It seems these are three levels of admission at NFLS, depending upon how well students did on their entrance exams.  Perhaps the other programs are even more expensive.  My understanding is that the IB stream allows students the broadest scope of choices in the Western world, UK, Australia, New Zealand as well as the US and Canada, from which to choose.  IB is becoming very popular and fashionable around the world, including Canada, and is a very rigorous academic program.  Some choose to graduate only from BC, while others study non-stop to obtain both the Chinese and Canadian diplomas, thus able to attend a Chinese university in the event they are not successful in their applications to study abroad.  BCA has about 300 students, while the entire school is about 4000 students. 

The school fronts onto one of the city’s main drags, and at 7:30 in the morning and from 3:30-5:00 the mass of jostling parents, bicycles, e-bikes, taxis and private cars at the school gates is a milling throng of honking horns, people visiting, grandparents with young children in tow, wanting to be elsewhere. The high school kids are off to their dorms, huddled at tables in open spaces with study groups, or off to catch the bus or one of two Metro subway lines homeward bound.  Not a place you want to be at those times of the day.  Our staff usually goes out to dinner, and the younger ones party till dawn.  It is virtually impossible to get a cab on Friday or Saturday in the early evening.  Shift change happens between 3:00-7:00 so that the bounty of this high demand period is shared among the drivers whom it seems drive 12 hour shifts. 

As I mentioned, I teach grade 12 English to classes of not more than 20 students, one of 17 Canadian and 2 American colleagues.  Preparing for the Provincial Standards Exam is a huge focus.  I also teach “Graduation Transitions” a weekly 50 minute class that helps students think about their adult lives in the West in terms of maintaining physical health, achieving a level of community involvement and most importantly, where to apply to attend university.  About  five of my colleagues were here last year so there is some continuity.  The current grade 11 and 12 classes conducted in English have a maximum 20 students, while the pupil teacher ratio has been bumped up in grade 10 and 11 to 27.  The more kids there are in a class, the less teacher time they get, and the less actual student talk time students get.  I seriously doubt that tuition costs reflect the learning implications of that change.  Math classes run about 50 students.  They are taught by Canadians who happen to be fluently Mandarin.  Though they teach in English they do have the added advantage of being able to clarify in Mandarin.

The Principal is also a “new hire”, though he was in Beijing for three years preceding last year which he spent back home in St. Mary’s, Newfoundland.  His wife, originally from St. John’s,  is teaching the grade 10 English.  Six of us, Principal, Grade 10 English, Physics, Math and me with Gr 12 English are all retirees. We have four staff members who have been in China for a while.  One has been in China for six years, and this is his 4th at this school.  Oral Communication is taught by a 50 something from the US who is in her sixth year at the school.  She uses debating skills as a forum to help students gain the confidence to express their opinions and to speak out.  Her son is here too, teaching at one of the universities. The other two senior staff are here with their wives who are Chinese.  The former lives in the residence floors of one of the downtown malls, which he says is just to his liking as he loves to shop.  Go figure.  I’m happy where I am too, because I don’t like to shop.  The other fellow is very quiet, and old and wise enough to have become somewhat cynical about rhetoric vs practice.  I do believe that is part of the professional development of a teacher.  He just seems to prefer to keep to himself and that’s all good.  He has been here for 9 years and is in his 70’s.  The remainder range from new graduates in their first teaching position to about age 35.  Most are hard working, dedicated and all are adventurers. 

Three staff members speak Chinese so we have in house cultural informants, though one admits she only knows what her parents have told her.  Two of the young teachers came to Canada during the Hong Kong exodus, and are now learning first hand about China.  One is a really vivacious 30 something who teaches Biology and coordinates the many events, clubs and extra-curricular activities.  She’s a treasure, open minded, forthcoming, diplomatic, organized and of course, hard working.  Another is about 23, teaches Biology, fresh out of university, and a ball of fire.  She is so intense that, in her presence, I feel I should be running.  She talks REALLY fast but I’m sure she is barely keeping up with her own mind.  And finally, an early 40’s Chino-Canadian has returned after 10 years in Canada, to be nearer to his aging parents.  His wife has stayed back “home” in Montreal to help their two daughters make the transition from high school to University.  He has not mentioned her except in response to a direct question.  He misses her and I do  hope she will come to visit though she is staying behind now to help the girls with their life transitions. Two of the young fellas are here with their Chinese wives.  The Phys Ed guy, a Canadian who played pro basketball in the US and New Zealand, exchanges weekend commutes to Hong Zho (spelling) where his Chinese wife teaches at a private international school.  Another new graduate is an Indo-Canadian.  She works hard and I thought was quite quiet.  However, her voice was a little raspy last Monday morning, and she confessed to having gone to Karaoke with the group after Friday’s staff dinner and singing till  4:30 in the morning.  I’d be a little raspy too, I should think.  I look forward to the next Karaoke though I’m sure I won’t make it to that time of night!  This Friday, I did go out to dinner for Ladies’ Night out, then on to a house party, and from their to a club.  Home at 3:00 a.m., tired and tipsy.  I’m paying for it still in that I am less focused even than usual from sleep deprivation.  I woke up on Saturday at 7:00 a.m. and could not get back to sleep.  I really do have to get some ear plugs.  The megaphones and firecrackers go non-stop on weekends, adding to the occasional car horn blasts that reach my 16th floor. 

I was warned it would be difficult to get students to participate in classes.  Since I knew discipline would not likely be a problem, I set a relaxing tone from the outset rather than the hard line I would have adopted back home.   I showed some photos of my family, my home and my town, a couple of gardens, and main street Birtle with five vehicles in one direction down main street, and none facing west on the highway out of town.  My students could not imagine it!  I now find that the majority of students are happy to answer questions, and discussion groups are becoming more active by the day.   

Just before leaving Manitoba, I heard a program about the fashion of immigrants adopting English names, or anglicizing their given names, and the negative effect that has had on their perception of self and their self-esteem.  I’d often thought about that as a hangover from my days in Xuzhou where all the students had chosen English names for themselves “because their Chinese names were too hard for their English teachers to say”. Here too all the students have English first names, either selected or given to them by their teachers!   I always thought, “Here these kids are trying to learn to communicate in a whole new foreign language, and their teachers can’t learn to say their NAMES!”  So, I am trying my best to learn my students correct names. Chinese given names are two meaningful syllables carefully chosen by their parents as “life wishes”, or descriptions, Red Flower, Brave Leader, that sort of thing.  From my first effort, I could tell they appreciated the thought, if not the pronunciation.  On the other hand, once I got the tones marked on the Pinyin names, I did notice some positive body language suggesting I wasn’t doing so badly and that is encouraging.  I had to tell them not to laugh at my bad pronunciation, but rather to bear in mind that I am trying.  Noone has laughed since.  Now I am at the point where I am ready to seek their critique.  Nonetheless, surprisingly, when asked, about 50% of my students say they prefer to be called by their Chinese names.  Shamefully, I have to admit, that I too find it much easier to learn than their proper names.  The students say, that among the new recruits my pronunciation is the best.  They are either being characteristically too kind, or it is a shocking truth!

Though I am supposed to teach the BC curriculum, we do not have the materials.  BC, like Manitoba, has three English 12 courses, though they do not write a common exam.  I teach the mid-range course, English 12 which is supposed to include the texts Richard Wagamese’s Keeper ‘N Me, Ogawa’s Obasan, and Hosseini’s The Kite Runner by way of novel studies, as well as Hamlet and Miller’s Death of a Salesman.  We have one copy of Hamlet and the BBC CD.  We have a class set of Death (March-April) and the DVD.  We do not have the novels.  Instead, we will probably use Lee’s To Kill a Mockingbird which the Oral Communication teacher uses as a primary research source for debates, and Keyes’ Flowers for Algernon.  I have the play so we will probably do a read-along of that text.  Students will write a comparison of the two forms.  I’m none too crazy about the novels because of the non-standard English used, the dialogue in Mockingbird or the spelling in Flowers. If any of my teacher buddies can offer some feedback about my thoughts on this topic, I would appreciate whatever advice or wisdom you might share.   We will give Hamlet short shrift (May-June) using the video and selected passages.  I think they would be so much better to use several novellas rather than these 250-300 page novels.  Afterall, these kids probably read at about 75-150 words a minute, so comprehension retention and attentionality will be problematic, let alone the language used. 

But I knew about the availability of resources from a conversation I had with the library records keeper.  I arranged to have a sample copy of an Oxford publication that gives comprehensive coverage of vocabulary, some grammar and a good focus to discussion, comprehension and writing as well as listening activities, 5 minute lecture excerpts and complementary contemporary music in 10 weekly lessons focused on developing academic informational text skills.  The lessons are based around a two page text on various recent new issues, Bloody Sunday, the Cold War, Apartheid, American race relations, etc.  In the meantime the Canadian representative and program coordinator, a semi-retired BC school division superintendant, will bring back sample copies of the remaining materials.  It takes about a year or more to have a novel approved by the Chinese Ministry of Education but I hope the novels on the curriculum may be approved.  They are certainly easier reads than those we are using though they are not short texts.  If any of you can suggest novellas that might be appropriate I would certainly appreciate the feedback.  I have thought of Steinbach’s Of Mice and Men or The Pearl but will have to do some research and reading to find others.

Unbelievably, two novels that were purchased by outgoing staff and approved appear nowhere in any curriculum I have come across.  One is Hamilton’s Water Rats of Wanchai, and the other is the Dust of 100 Dogs.   Water Rats is a mystery along the lines of Lars Steig’s The Girl Who series.  Whereas you may know that Steig’s novels are strong pieces with complex well developed characters, Water Rats is just ok with rather flat characters and predictable plot lines.  It did win a mystery writer’s prize and will make adequate vacation reading in February.  The reviews for 100 Dogs are inconsistent at best, and bad at worst.  It has many characters and ranges over thousands of years of human history and several continents.  Reviews say it is hard to follow.  This does not bode well for my EFL population and I hope the grade 11 teachers enjoy it.  I am working on getting Kite Runner, Obasan, and Keeper for next year.

I am contracted to teach 25 or fewer hours a week.  At this point I have 21 hours. My English classes are all double 50 minute classes, four per week with each of my two classes.  The Career Planning – Graduation Transitions course is a strange one.  It is a 4 credit course and I have 5 sections.  The morning classes are 50 minutes, but the afternoon three are 40 minutes long.  Two of those are from 4:20-5:00!  Those are two very long days.  My English classes alternate sections, but all start at 7:45 in the morning.  But we are also, as usual, expected to do some extracurricular work.  There are about 50 different school clubs organized by students and sponsored by a teacher liaison/supervisor.  I may do a debate club though that will be something new for me.  It is though something I am interested in.  As well, the Study Hall and Remediation Centre will soon resume services and I hope that will be the last part of my assignment.  It ran 4:30-6:00 last year, though the new schedule gives students many more breaks during the day than previously.  So perhaps this year it can run during the day. 

My English teacher colleague who teaches the other three sections is a new graduate and very well read and keen and insightful about literature.  She will be a big help with the haute culture aspects of the analysis, the part I was never too keen on.  And I hope she continues to be concerned about the language aspects of the courses.  That is my area of interest and expertise.  That and the research and writing skill development. 

September 10th was Teacher’s Day, a day set aside to honour teachers.  Teachers are given thank you’s, a special wish for the day, a card or a gift.  I was given a beautifully colourful silk scarf by one student and a lovely card from another.  NFLS gave us each a box of Moon Cakes in honour of the annual “Thanksgiving” harvest full moon.  Moon Cakes are little round cookies, 5-8 cm in diameter, with a thin pastry covering around a filling, usually of ground fruit and nuts.  They are reminiscent, for me, of fruit cake though the consistency is finer.  Those given by the school are delicious with a fruit flavoured jelly filling.  Individually they cost anywhere from 7 mau (1.5 cents) to a silk or satin lined box of 10 for 350 Yuan.  Needless to say, I have no idea what filling those might have – gold leaf perhaps? Anyway, the boxes are certainly beautiful. 

On a personal note, I like many things about my apartment.  The location is a little removed from the crowds, the noise, and the expensive foreigner’s shops of the downtown core.  It is close to the subway and not more than a km from the buses I use most.  Plus, I am on the verge of buying a bicycle to commute to work.  But the walls are in dire need of paint.  Washing them will help, but they are many marks and stains.  I have had the cushions on the rattan couch and chairs replaced and they are much more attractive.  But there is no mattress on my guest bed, which is quite unacceptable, and is, I hope, a problem I must resolve in anticipation of guests.  The bathroom vanity cupboard doors and drawers don’t align and don’t close properly as a result.  It’s probably not of “best quality” and is far from new.  The backing for the hooks on the drapes is sun damaged and ripped and the weights at the vertical edges have pulled away from whatever was supposed to hold them in place.  They don’t hang nicely.   The counter top of the vanity and the one in the kitchen is stained and in the case of the latter, has a crack in it.  I ground out whatever corrosion was in the shower massage nozzles and they now work.  And I miss my own cooking. I'm virtually living on fruit and nuts, coconut milk and yoghurt, coffee and tea, beer and now, alas, red wine.  
 I never imagined I’d be grateful to my mother for knowing how to render pork lard.  In a country where pork is the staple meat source, and everything is dripping with it, I find it impossible to communicate that I want to buy lard.  And I can’t identify it in the department stores though it must be there.  All the bread is sweet and I just want plain, plain, plain bread. And I want to make a pie so I will have to get out to buy a toaster oven soon.  Fry bread was delicious in desperation, but fat is fat.  So you see, I am now solidly in phase 2 of acculturation.  Missing home and family, foods and dogs, and “our” way.  But as Ron said, I will get over it.  End of conversation.
There is one little comical idiosyncrasy I must mention because it makes me smile every day.  I live on the 16th floor.  As I rise in the elevator I pass floors – 2, 3, 3a, 5 and on to 12, 12a, 12b, 15, except in the stairwells. There the floors are labelled numerically rather than sub-alphabetically.  I guess those who use stairs must be less suspicious by nature.  Four is an unlucky number for the Chinese, and 13 is unlucky for us.  But Che tells me many buildings in Winnipeg don’t have a 13th floor either.  There the floors go 11, 12 14, 15, etc. 
Enuf for now.  Time for my Chinese massage.  It will feel so good when it is over, but it hurts like the dickens while it is going on.  It’s like acupuncture with thumbs!  I hope you read with interest.  I was thrilled to receive your feedback after the last update and look forward to encouraging feedback again. 
If you do have any specific questions about my teaching experiences, please ask. 

Ooooh, Learning so much - Sept 8/12


The folllowing was the first "blog" that couldn't be.  Instead, it was e-mailed. 
If you receive this, then you are among the above in my list of valued people.  If you read some, or indeed, all, of what follows and would prefer not to receive subsequent updates, just let me know, and I will still keep you on my list of valued folks, but take you off the list of those who might be curious about China.  I had fully intended to simply let you know about the Blog I intended to keep, and invite you to subscribe to an RSS feed, but heaven knows when I will be able to get a VPN membership that allows me to skirt some of China’s internet blocks which include Facebook, CBC, Blogspot, most book review sites, and many others.  If I wait any longer to write what the past couple of weeks have held for me, I will never do it.  So, here goes. 

When I was doing research lo so many years ago, I learned that there are basically 4 stages to getting used to a new culture.  First one goes through the tourist phase where everything is a romantic adventure, different, maybe frustrating, but never depressing.  Second, in homesickness and loneliness, one experiences rejection of the new culture, a time when we ask ourselves why THEY can’t just do it properly, my way, our way.  This period is largely frustrating and sometimes maddening.  Maddening because we don’t understand THEIR way, and they can’t understand why we are frustrated because, they are, afterall, just doing it the right way, their way.  The first period lasts anywhere from a couple of weeks to a couple of months, and sometimes people don’t progress beyond the second stage, tucking their tails under and heading for home.  The third stage is adaptation, a time of adjustment in recognition that you are in Rome.  This may kick in sometime after the first month.  After you learn enough of the local language to discuss the issues, you may get to a time of acceptance and social change.  You don’t need to get all carried away and political, but you are able to communicate how things are “back home”, and THEY can then choose whether to make any changes to their way of living.  But mostly, you accept the way things are, and go with the flow.  When I was here 20 years ago, I got to adaptation, I would say.  But then I had the comfort cushion of partner and my son to keep me busy and involved.  This time, I am older, less patient and less open-minded.  I have my colleagues, and that is a comfort I did not have before.  I have moved very quickly to rejection and adaptation, and my students as well as colleagues help me accept things as they are.  As the Chinese chief administrative assistant said, most frustrations of China can be explained in three little words – “so MANY people”.  I need to remember that either Beijing or Shanghai have as many people in one city as we have in our whole country, which is slightly bigger than China!  So, bus fare is 2Y, the equivalent of 30 cents, shipping 130 lbs of luggage 250 km Shanghai to Nanjing was 60 Renminbi (Chinese yuan) or $10.00, and a cross cultural dinner out at a very good buffet with two drinks, Carlsberg beer and Chivas Regal scotch, was $20.00.  Tipping is not done. 

The traffic is only hectic at rush hour.  Winnipeg has rush hour, Birtle has rush minute – here it is two hours, with heavy traffic for three night and morning.  I think buses do have a schedule as I noticed one female driver a few days ago refused passengers while parked at a curb.  But they simply run non-stop.  Sometimes there will be three of the same bus one behind the other, sometimes it is 5-7 minutes between runs because of the way the traffic has moved.  So many people! 

My two bedroom apartment is conveniently located in the Baixia district, 10 minutes from downtown in slight traffic, and close to a lake, river, canal and Confucius Temple which is an historic sight and a big tourist market.  It’s about 97 square metres, 1/3 more than my Bonniedoon house in Edmonton that I shared with two toddlers.  I simply keep one door closed to reduce the weekly electric bill door to door cash collection for air conditioning now, and heat in the winter; week of electricity was 77Y ($12.00).  So many people!  But should you want to visit, I would welcome you for sure, and Nanjing could keep you interested for a week as it is a city with a lot of history going back to ancient times.  The city suffered a massacre by the Japanese I believe in 1937, and they have not been forgiven; there is a big Nanjing Massacre Museum commemorating the killing of 300,000 Chinese over a period of six weeks.  And then there is Beijing and hundreds of other fascinating places to visit.  China is safe and people on the street are honest and do their best to be helpful.

My first night in, August 31, was the annual day of the dead when people burn “monopoly” money, and paper decorations and toys in honour of their loved ones gone, in hopes that their way in the nether world will be wealthy and wondrous.  Street merchants have a display of it laid out for purchase by mourners.  The back streets smelled of burning paper; fires ranged from a tiny one tended by a lone person just beyond the turned eyes of the gate guard, to a virtual bonfire with 8-20 silently prayerful people in the alley.

Sometime in the day before school started I made the mistake of drinking an ounce of tap water after brushing my teeth.  Not a good idea! So many people, so much pollution.  But 48 hours later I was healthy again.  I have bought a t-kettle though, and am careful to boil water, and then drink it when cooled.  I am too frugal  and despise the billions of plastic bottles that are either landfilled or put in recycle bins daily. I do have two 1.5 l bottles of water in the fridge, but on the whole, use re-bottled water. re-bottled water.   My students tell me the recycle bins are largely for show – I hope they are wrong because it is a medium sized city 10,00000 times the size of beautiful Birtle, with 8,000,000 people.  So many people.  Unfortunately, split pants for babies and toddlers are being replaced by disposable diapers which will mean so much more garbage. 

I have pretty much got my household set up  and am settling into a teaching routine. Grade 12 was never so good.  Jet lag the result of being 13 hours AHEAD, and therefore having lost a full night’s sleep, took a week to get over, sleeping in 3 hour naps and feeling exhausted for several days.  I carefully selected the shoes that were the most comfortable for my new duck’s feet, but walking on concrete all the time is downright painful.  I broke down today and bought a pair of crocs for work, and will only wear real shoes for the commute to and from school. Nonetheless, when I get to my “community”, the set of high rises where my apartment is, the grounds are quite lovely, with intricately woven treed walkways (concrete) and bridges (wood), concrete lattice with groomed grass, lily pads and carp.  Many people are keeping dogs as pets rather than food now, and there are the occasional cats outside.  Noone has mentioned having a cat as a pet though.  One has to step carefully on the streets in the morning because the Fidos have been out for their morning patrol, on or off leash.  It is amazing to see how the dogs adjust to the traffic, staying fairly close at heel at all times.  I called to one the other day and he ignored me.  I was told, in English, that the dog does not speak English.  I have seen very few dogs that appeared as tho they might be strays and I’m not sure what to think of that!  Most are well cared for and well fed.  However, I felt rather sorry for the full haired Samoyed on a 33 degree day, and for the unsheared panting poodle wearing a jacket against the cold when the temperature dropped to 29 degrees.

Aside from the disposable diapers, much of Westernization has not been kind to the Chinese.  My students tell me everyone is crazy for Fast Food, and it shows.  I don’t recall seeing a Chinese who was obese when I was in Xuzhou but it is not uncommon now.  I had a Big Mac last week at the local MacDonald’s.  Not entirely disappointing, but no Thousand Island dressing, either.  Nanjing is known for its snacks of which there are more than 300 from which to choose at street stalls.  I tried one noodle shop but will need to learn to order before I do that again.  There is  a green leafy parsley sort of thing that is used to flavour many dishes, and I find I don’t care for it.  There is a special local Nanjing duck, which is salted and delicious, but otherwise main courses are very greasy.  It took me an hour and a half of intense scrubbing to clean the hood fan – which I was assured had been cleaned.  But, the good news is there is a hood fan and there is a “hob”, two burners of gas range, a microwave, fridge with freezer, and now the T-kettle, a frying pan and a big cooking pot where I can cook my bland western food.  So many people.  I have not shopped, except for today, in the morning so meat is in short supply by the time I get there after my late afternoon nap.  That being said, there are many kinds of fish, chicken (laying hens gone butchered as fryers?, and stewed), beef (expensive low grade cuts) and plenty of pork.   I think the better cuts may be  saved for the upscale restaurants.  I cooked up a meal of chicken breast the other night, and though a tad tough, it was tasty.  Stores are open till 9:00 or 10:00 every day of the week, and the street stalls open sometime before 7:00 a.m.  I’m glad I don’t work those hours! 

There is a gym somewhere in this community (my group of walled high rises), but the interesting thing is the street gym not far from the market that is just outside the gates.   It’s like a free Curves!  Old and young alike take some time to play or work out on the machines.  Early in the morning, in parks, one sees groups of a dozen or so women dancercising to slow enchanting traditional music.  Men on the streets scanning the newspaper right to left, and sometimes still, down to up.  And at dusk, the men exercise. 

There is the cutest puppy owned by a street merchant in the market, and folks were delighted when I stopped to watch the toddlers scamper or to play with and pet the cutest little puppy.  He is one of the very common local Heinz 57 breed that looks like a cockapoo, taffy coloured.   The one child policy has now been in place long enough that not all boys are little emperors.  I have never seen a parent even appear cross with a child except once today when a parent called in consternation to her 4 year old who'd run ahead into the e-bike/bike/pedestrian lane; redirection seems  the most common discipline.  Though here in Jiangsu province, people are allowed to have two children.  Mao’s idea about reducing the population has fallen by the wayside, and the intent now seems to be to hold the population constant.  I don’t know whether there is a pension policy for peasants in the countryside other than sons, though.  The population was, I believe about 1 billion 20 years ago; now it’s four times that!

There are so many tall buildings and so much of the architecture is similar with the exception of 1912 district nearby.  Finally, today I got a wisp of north/south, east/west, so maybe I will suffer less directional challenge in finding my way home next week than this week. The second day of school I got misplaced and turned around.  I thought I recognized where I was going but ended up walking for 1.25 hours before finding my way with the help of police officers directing traffic or Western looking young people who spoke a little English, or understood my horrifying Mandarin, to direct me.  The blister on my heel broke and my hammered toes ached and my back hurt from carrying the weight of my computer and purse with dictionary, phrasebook, a pound of 1 quai coins, etc.  I was so tired, and so frustrated with myself that when I got home at 7:00 p.m. I lay down for a nap and woke up at midnight, then worked till 3:00 a.m. before going back to sleep for two hours to get up in time for my 7:45 class – no kidding!  It takes an hour to get to work either on the direct bus route or on the subway and connecting bus in rush hour and it’s about 6 blocks between bus stops.   When I have that early class on Tuesdays and Thursdays, the bus trip is 10 minutes as compared with 45 otherwise. 

But then the next day I decided to stay on the bus for an extra stop, hoping it would be less far to walk. Again, I could not tell the difference from one Bank, three to a block sometimes, or one glassed or concrete high rise from another, and got all turned around, walking for an hour, part of it in two circles within 3 blocks of home.  I had intended to come home and have a shower, change clothes and get a rest before going out to dinner with colleagues.  Instead, carrying that ever constant bag of books, I ended up taking a cab for 9Y (multiply by 15-16 cents) back downtown.  Available cabs display a red light, engaged ones a green light, and engaged and embarking on a shift change green outlined by yellow; there was not a red light to be seen after the dinner so I took an electric bike equipped with an umbrella for added comfort and shelter when it rains.  The driver was confident he knew the address, and even more so after consulting with another driver.  Bad sign maybe, but cities are groups of neighbourhoods everywhere.  I recognized we were close to home when he stopped people on the street to ask directions.  I was in the same area where I’d earlier been walking around in circles.  Looking at the address, he insisted we were in the right place and wanted me to get out of the cab but I would not, equally insistent that the building he said was mine was definitely not.  Given my earlier experience, there was no darned way I was setting foot on the street till I was at my gate!   At his suggestion that I call someone, I remembered that the one person who might help , despite that it was  11:00 pm, was the real estate agent who had found the apartment for me.  After some discussion with him, she informed me that he said I’d given him the wrong address.  But she had written it down for me!  He finally got to the main drag, Zhongshannan Lu (street) and then I recognized where we were.  As it turned out today when I had the real estate agent’s colleague check, the original agent had indeed written down the wrong address.  So that explained a number of hiking miles!  He had quoted me 40 Y initially I think, but I may well have misunderstood him too. When people on the street helped me, the quote was 15 Y. When I got off the phone, I had to pay 25 Y for having mislead him.  Ahhhhh!  Whatever, getting home was worth the $1.60 penalty!  I was driven home safe and sound.  Hopefully, I will not walk in circles this coming week, and will get a bicycle soon so the commute to work will be only about ½ hour.   As Che says, a bike can be faster than a vehicle in heavy traffic tho I will have to be careful to dodge the many pedestrians in the bike lanes.  So few walk in the outermost pedestrian lane where the concrete is ridged and marred by 2 foot diameter eucalyptus, the occasional broken heaved tile, and morning doggie doo before the street sweepers come on duty with their bamboo brooms.  I have come to see the humour in the traffic, smiling today as my bus swerved into oncoming traffic to get abreast of three other buses at the traffic light, rather than wait with car traffic for the light to change.  Should you come, as I was told, always carefully watch the traffic.  Private cars, all black, may stop for you, but should you be run over by a taxi or a bus, and live, you will be sued heavily by the Company, which has very deep pockets. 

I could not avoid shopping at Walmart today, though I had tried.  But here it is just another department store, with a floor for food, and one for dry goods and clothing.  Service in all the stores and shops is great.  Hovering, even, in anticipation of the foreigner's desires.  At my local SuGua supermarket, the floor servers recognize me (no surprise, I suppose) and one helped me buy a better quality of pillow for less money than the one that was on sale for 30Y (quai). Today, after shopping at Wally Whirl, I emerged to a heavy rain and again, nary a cab to be found.  I and my 40 lbs of shopping, took a peddle bike taxi with a female driver who probably weighed about 125 lbs.  She quoted me 15 Y, and was bowingly grateful when I gave her a 5Y tip.  I explained, “Wo hen da”,  (I’m very big.)  I felt sorry for her having to pedal me and all my shopping through the rain.  Thank goodness there were no hills.  She also sought a colleague’s advice about where to take me but the correct address helped immeasurably! 

If I’ve bored you to tears, I’m sorry.  If you’ve read with interest, I’m grateful. 

August 26 - still arriving


August 25, 2012, 3:00 a.m.-6:00 a.m. Shanghai  time

I slept little the 2 nights preceding my August 23, Thursday, flight to Vancouver, and on to Shanghai, in part because I was stressed, excited, and trying to get done all the chores and arrangements.  It seems I spun my wheels until 2 weeks before, and only when the Separation Agreement was actually signed that I really got into gear and got things done.  So, basically the time line was that I had the interview with Kazahkstan in the wee hours of July 1st in Ottawa with this offer pending, got their rejection August 4 and on August 3rd agreed to sign with BC Academy and Nanjing Foreign Language School, at 40% more money, and doing BC curriculum.  I will teach a Grade 12 English for pragmatic purposes, and an Introduction to Post Secondary Education elective project based course for all 5 Grade 12 classes.  Though it is a private school, it is English, it is abroad, it is Nanjing, it is EFL.  It is a dream come true. 

I actually went into Winnipeg with Xian on the 22nd, hoping I might be able to switch flights to the Wednesday morning flight.  But there was only one seat left Vancouver to Shanghai and it was Executive class so would have been ridiculously expensive.  So Xian and I got some chicken breasts and shared a nice dinner with Che and Brianne at Che’s place, before watching a pretty depressing movie called The Wrestler about the life fate of a completely self centered man while I repacked my luggage for the 4th time.  I hope this movie was not some hidden message intended for me!  This time I offloaded another 20 lbs in addition to the 15 that my third repack had purged.  I still wondered how I would manage the backpack, carry-on, and three wheeled but heavy cases.  On the 23rd then  I spent the morning badgering Xian to get his Student Loan Application done and then Che got home from work at 12:30.  He completed his Student Loan application and submitted it at 2:30.  Then we went out to the Hobby shop down near Higgins and he got his engines for the rocket.  Only then did I realize that he had hoped and expected to launch the rocket in the afternoon before going again to work 5:00-8:00.  But I also had to go to the Courthouse because I’d forgotten to bring what I believed to be an outstanding traffic ticket.  I got to the courthouse at about 3:45 and back to Che’s at 4:05.  He had not taken his phone with him because the battery was dead, and when he got back Brianne was angry because he had not told her that we had run out of time to do the launch.  As he commented when I was about to drop him off to return to his apartment, we never seem able to accurately estimate how long things will take, and we plan to do more than there is time for.  Xian continued to play his game, which did not include me until 6:45 when he agreed to my suggestion that we go for a walk.  We started out heading north but then I suggested it was more scenic if we walked south, thinking we would go over to the Legislative grounds and then onward.  But the way lead us across the Maryland Bridge and then we turned left onto Academy, past St. Mary’s Academy, across the street and through Munson Park, and then on and down Dorchester.  I suggested we pop in and say hello-goodbye to Fenella, which I was pleasantly surprised Xian unhesitatingly agreed to.  Alas, she was not hope so I scribbled a note and we walked on back toward Che’s along   Stafford and Academy and back across the Maryland Bridge.  We talked about differences in the distribution of wealth and especially oil revenues in Norway and northern Europe where they offer a deal and tell the oil moguls to take it or leave it, as opposed to here where our governments pander to them for the benefit of the very few.  And he mentioned how he wants to read Neitsche and Marx in the original, perhaps not realizing that would mean reading them in languages other than French which he is learning, or English, which then raised the issue of what is lost or maintained in translations by those in agreement vs those opposed to their arguments.  I mentioned that though dated, I have one of Grandad Mardiros’ preferred books on each in a box marked “philosophy” in my storage shed.  He was quite interested in that idea.  On the way back, at about 7:50, knowing Che would not be back until 8:30 I was internally pleading for more time with him and suggested we grab a bite at Stella’s since it would, with the rocket launch, be another 1.5 hours before we could get dinner.  He treated me to a piece of delicious Saskatoon pie with ice cream and we got back to Che’s about two minutes before he walked in the door.  Brianne declined to join us for the launch or dinner which gave us some quality time for just the three of us.  We took one rocket, knowing we would not have time or light for more than that, and not wanting to launch Brianne’s without her because of the chance of not being able to find it.  We decided the nearest wide open space was at Assiniboine Park’s east soccer field and set out at 8:50.  Che knew the way by bike and would have turned off on Academy but acknowledged it was a twisty turny route, whereas I thought the south entrance was off Grant.  So it cost us an extra 5-10 minutes by the time I resolved my confusion between Assiniboine Forest bisected by Grant, and Assiniboine Park north of Corydon. Then I took the west entrance to Park Drive and drove all around to get to the soccer field east of the Conservatory.  Of course, Che’s twisty turny route off Wellington would have been far more direct.   We walked halfway across the field and set up between the E/W goal posts.  It was perfectly calm so Che thought a light trajectory would be best, and then the breeze rose.  We launched and Xian followed the rocket’s path even after the first engine fell away.  But it went into the trees, and it was too dark to find it.  The boys decided to come back in the morning after seeing me off, and a couple more hours of sleep.  I hope they found it but it could easily have gotten hung up in the trees. 

Then we went to Osborne village to have dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant but it was 5 minutes to closing and we didn’t think they would appreciate our showing up at that time.  But downstairs we had a nice meal of Chinese food at the Spicey Noodle House.  I got involved in the usual nagging before Che reminded me that it would be nice to talk about how much fun it was setting off the rocket.  And it was fun to be with them, a really wonderful send off gift to be able to spend several hours of relatively low stress time with them.  I love them so much and I know I will miss them terribly.  But this is the right thing to be doing, for me to be forced to give them the space they need to grow and for me to do what I have long wanted. 

                My flight left Winnipeg at 7:00 a.m. so I was up at 4:50 a.m. and the boys took me to the airport.  Xian threatened that it was way too early for a normal human to get up, but thank goodness he was joking, and they both came to help me get away. I had a good, though of course, long trip, a full 24 hours in transit, to arrive in Nanjing at 8:00 p.m. local time despite concerns about my ability to manage my luggage. It ended up it was the carryon weight that had to be juggled to get back to 22 lbs.! To do that I had to transfer all of my makeup and personals, 5 lbs, to the overweight bag.  The airline only charged overweight/oversize ($225.00 Cdn/1435.85) for one of my three bags(68 lbs). They extended a kindness in not charging the $50.00 overweight charge for the other two (64 lbs and 59 lbs ) ($100.00Cdn/638.15 Y).  Leaving Vancouver Airport I had to pass by several Duty Free shops and though I was not in desperate need of anything, could not resist the Mac makeup counter.  I doubt I saved any money, but I did buy some foundation powder, cream eye liner, angle brush, and lipstick - $93.00!  The overweight/oversize one did not arrive in Shanghai with me and is being sent to the School by the airline. The train system required that the other two be shipped as freight from Shanghai to Nanjing at a cost of 60 Y each. Mei was most helpful in making those arrangements. So you see in the end, while I did not have luggage carts, I only had to cope with the backpack and the carryon bag!   I hope the bags will be waiting for me at the School on Monday morning. In the meantime, I have some makeup to wear without a crash course in shopping and language learning.

A hotel stay of three nights is what is normally permitted while a new teacher finds an apartment. Although she did find three apartments for me to look at, by Saturday afternoon, two of them had been rented to other tenants. I had understood that the agent would hold #1 and #3 until I was able to see them both. But only one was available to look at and it was not acceptable for two reasons. I found that the 64 stairs to get to the apartment will be more than my arthritic left hip is able to contend with when carrying groceries or homework without the option of an elevator, and the landlady, who apparently lives across the hall, keeps some possessions in the apartment. The real estate agent said that she will find alternatives for me to look at but that will not be possible until Monday, and then I am only available after our meetings so even then the time will be very limited.

Therefore, I have asked whether there exists the discretion in the 3000 Y luggage allowance to permit me to stay an extra night, and possibly two, at the hotel while we search for an acceptable apartment. I understand the hotel costs about 300 Y/night while my total luggage cost has been approximately 1560 Y. I had help to interpret Nanjing's map and select a couple of possible areas where it is likely that I will be able to find either a one or two bedroom apartment within or close to the 4000 Y budget that meets my criteria.


In the hotel lobby yesterday, with only my high top hiking boots for footwear, I decided I needed to find some sort of feminine shoes.  The porter walked with me, a nice break from a boring job of standing around waiting for someone for whom to open a door, to a little shoe shop a block away where I found a pair of dressy slip in flip flop sandals that will do till I get my luggage.  There was a meeting of army officers in the hotel and later in the day as I waited for my pick-up, I noticed an officer speak sharply to the young man, for no apparent reason other than that the former could and the latter was available.  He scurried to pick up an infinitesimal little something off the carpet as the officer walked past him.  I noticed and smiled at him, he smiled back.  I could not help but silently laugh a little, and he did too, at the officious officer.  I guess that`s why they are called officers!  Today he had a warm smile for me as I went down to breakfast. 

  I intended to update my blog on Blogspot – Google and communicate through Facebook since that’s where Che and Xian get their e-mail most regularly, and where I can post photos too.  I wanted to listen to CBC radio last night when I did not care for what was on the English language TV channel.  Also, Eldon had sent a YouTube link I wanted to see.  Alas, all are blocked here in China!  Xian helped me download a site that may help me circumvent some of the blocks but it apparently does not work automatically.  I need my students!   We will truly be a community of learners!  Skype works and when I get a phone, I will load it. 

August 25 - on Arrival

August 25, 2012, 3:00 a.m.-6:00 a.m. Shanghai  time
I slept little the 2 nights preceding my August 23, Thursday, flight to Vancouver, and on to Shanghai, in part because I was stressed, excited, and trying to get done all the chores and arrangements.  It seems I spun my wheels until 2 weeks before, and only when the Separation Agreement was actually signed that I really got into gear and got things done.  So, basically the time line was that I had the interview with Kazahkstan in the wee hours of July 1st in Ottawa with this offer pending, got their rejection August 4 and on August 3rd agreed to sign with BC Academy and Nanjing Foreign Language School, at 40% more money, and doing BC curriculum.  I will teach a Grade 12 English for pragmatic purposes, and an Introduction to Post Secondary Education elective project based course for all 5 Grade 12 classes.  Though it is a private school, it is English, it is abroad, it is Nanjing, it is EFL.  It is a dream come true. 
I actually went into Winnipeg with Xian on the 22nd, hoping I might be able to switch flights to the Wednesday morning flight.  But there was only one seat left Vancouver to Shanghai and it was Executive class so would have been ridiculously expensive.  So Xian and I got some chicken breasts and shared a nice dinner with Che and Brianne at Che’s place, before watching a pretty depressing movie called The Wrestler about the life fate of a completely self centered man while I repacked my luggage for the 4th time.  I hope this movie was not some hidden message intended for me!  This time I offloaded another 20 lbs in addition to the 15 that my third repack had purged.  I still wondered how I would manage the backpack, carry-on, and three wheeled but heavy cases.  On the 23rd then  I spent the morning badgering Xian to get his Student Loan Application done and then Che got home from work at 12:30.  He completed his Student Loan application and submitted it at 2:30.  Then we went out to the Hobby shop down near Higgins and he got his engines for the rocket.  Only then did I realize that he had hoped and expected to launch the rocket in the afternoon before going again to work 5:00-8:00.  But I also had to go to the Courthouse because I’d forgotten to bring what I believed to be an outstanding traffic ticket.  I got to the courthouse at about 3:45 and back to Che’s at 4:05.  He had not taken his phone with him because the battery was dead, and when he got back Brianne was angry because he had not told her that we had run out of time to do the launch.  As he commented when I was about to drop him off to return to his apartment, we never seem able to accurately estimate how long things will take, and we plan to do more than there is time for.  Xian continued to play his game, which did not include me until 6:45 when he agreed to my suggestion that we go for a walk.  We started out heading north but then I suggested it was more scenic if we walked south, thinking we would go over to the Legislative grounds and then onward.  But the way lead us across the Maryland Bridge and then we turned left onto Academy, past St. Mary’s Academy, across the street and through Munson Park, and then on and down Dorchester.  I suggested we pop in and say hello-goodbye to Fenella, which I was pleasantly surprised Xian unhesitatingly agreed to.  Alas, she was not hope so I scribbled a note and we walked on back toward Che’s along   Stafford and Academy and back across the Maryland Bridge.  We talked about differences in the distribution of wealth and especially oil revenues in Norway and northern Europe where they offer a deal and tell the oil moguls to take it or leave it, as opposed to here where our governments pander to them for the benefit of the very few.  And he mentioned how he wants to read Neitsche and Marx in the original, perhaps not realizing that would mean reading them in languages other than French which he is learning, or English, which then raised the issue of what is lost or maintained in translations by those in agreement vs those opposed to their arguments.  I mentioned that though dated, I have one of Grandad Mardiros’ preferred books on each in a box marked “philosophy” in my storage shed.  He was quite interested in that idea.  On the way back, at about 7:50, knowing Che would not be back until 8:30 I was internally pleading for more time with him and suggested we grab a bite at Stella’s since it would, with the rocket launch, be another 1.5 hours before we could get dinner.  He treated me to a piece of delicious Saskatoon pie with ice cream and we got back to Che’s about two minutes before he walked in the door.  Brianne declined to join us for the launch or dinner which gave us some quality time for just the three of us.  We took one rocket, knowing we would not have time or light for more than that, and not wanting to launch Brianne’s without her because of the chance of not being able to find it.  We decided the nearest wide open space was at Assiniboine Park’s east soccer field and set out at 8:50.  Che knew the way by bike and would have turned off on Academy but acknowledged it was a twisty turny route, whereas I thought the south entrance was off Grant.  So it cost us an extra 5-10 minutes by the time I resolved my confusion between Assiniboine Forest bisected by Grant, and Assiniboine Park north of Corydon. Then I took the west entrance to Park Drive and drove all around to get to the soccer field east of the Conservatory.  Of course, Che’s twisty turny route off Wellington would have been far more direct.   We walked halfway across the field and set up between the E/W goal posts.  It was perfectly calm so Che thought a light trajectory would be best, and then the breeze rose.  We launched and Xian followed the rocket’s path even after the first engine fell away.  But it went into the trees, and it was too dark to find it.  The boys decided to come back in the morning after seeing me off, and a couple more hours of sleep.  I hope they found it but it could easily have gotten hung up in the trees. 
Then we went to Osborne village to have dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant but it was 5 minutes to closing and we didn’t think they would appreciate our showing up at that time.  But downstairs we had a nice meal of Chinese food at the Spicey Noodle House.  I got involved in the usual nagging before Che reminded me that it would be nice to talk about how much fun it was setting off the rocket.  And it was fun to be with them, a really wonderful send off gift to be able to spend several hours of relatively low stress time with them.  I love them so much and I know I will miss them terribly.  But this is the right thing to be doing, for me to be forced to give them the space they need to grow and for me to do what I have long wanted. 
                My flight left Winnipeg at 7:00 a.m. so I was up at 4:50 a.m. and the boys took me to the airport.  Xian threatened that it was way too early for a normal human to get up, but thank goodness he was joking, and they both came to help me get away. I had a good, though of course, long trip, a full 24 hours in transit, to arrive in Nanjing at 8:00 p.m. local time despite concerns about my ability to manage my luggage. It ended up it was the carryon weight that had to be juggled to get back to 22 lbs.! To do that I had to transfer all of my makeup and personals, 5 lbs, to the overweight bag.  The airline only charged overweight/oversize ($225.00 Cdn/1435.85) for one of my three bags(68 lbs). They extended a kindness in not charging the $50.00 overweight charge for the other two (64 lbs and 59 lbs ) ($100.00Cdn/638.15 Y).  Leaving Vancouver Airport I had to pass by several Duty Free shops and though I was not in desperate need of anything, could not resist the Mac makeup counter.  I doubt I saved any money, but I did buy some foundation powder, cream eye liner, angle brush, and lipstick - $93.00!  The overweight/oversize one did not arrive in Shanghai with me and is being sent to the School by the airline. The train system required that the other two be shipped as freight from Shanghai to Nanjing at a cost of 60 Y each. Mei was most helpful in making those arrangements. So you see in the end, while I did not have luggage carts, I only had to cope with the backpack and the carryon bag!   I hope the bags will be waiting for me at the School on Monday morning. In the meantime, I have some makeup to wear without a crash course in shopping and language learning.
A hotel stay of three nights is what is normally permitted while a new teacher finds an apartment. Although she did find three apartments for me to look at, by Saturday afternoon, two of them had been rented to other tenants. I had understood that the agent would hold #1 and #3 until I was able to see them both. But only one was available to look at and it was not acceptable for two reasons. I found that the 64 stairs to get to the apartment will be more than my arthritic left hip is able to contend with when carrying groceries or homework without the option of an elevator, and the landlady, who apparently lives across the hall, keeps some possessions in the apartment. The real estate agent said that she will find alternatives for me to look at but that will not be possible until Monday, and then I am only available after our meetings so even then the time will be very limited.
Therefore, I have asked whether there exists the discretion in the 3000 Y luggage allowance to permit me to stay an extra night, and possibly two, at the hotel while we search for an acceptable apartment. I understand the hotel costs about 300 Y/night while my total luggage cost has been approximately 1560 Y. I had help to interpret Nanjing's map and select a couple of possible areas where it is likely that I will be able to find either a one or two bedroom apartment within or close to the 4000 Y budget that meets my criteria.
In the hotel lobby yesterday, with only my high top hiking boots for footwear, I decided I needed to find some sort of feminine shoes.  The porter walked with me, a nice break from a boring job of standing around waiting for someone for whom to open a door, to a little shoe shop a block away where I found a pair of dressy slip in flip flop sandals that will do till I get my luggage.  There was a meeting of army officers in the hotel and later in the day as I waited for my pick-up, I noticed an officer speak sharply to the young man, for no apparent reason other than that the former could and the latter was available.  He scurried to pick up an infinitesimal little something off the carpet as the officer walked past him.  I noticed and smiled at him, he smiled back.  I could not help but silently laugh a little, and he did too, at the officious officer.  I guess that`s why they are called officers!  Today he had a warm smile for me as I went down to breakfast. 
  I intended to update my blog on Blogspot – Google and communicate through Facebook since that’s where Che and Xian get their e-mail most regularly, and where I can post photos too.  I wanted to listen to CBC radio last night when I did not care for what was on the English language TV channel.  Also, Eldon had sent a YouTube link I wanted to see.  Alas, all are blocked here in China!  Xian helped me download a site that may help me circumvent some of the blocks but it apparently does not work automatically.  I need my students!   We will truly be a community of learners!  Skype works and when I get a phone, I will load it.