October 4,
2012
My last
update responded to questions about my teaching job. This time I will respond to a question about
circumstances of daily living. So many
of you have been to so many places, exciting, isolated, impoverished and
developing. China is some and all of
these, in different places. Here,
Nanjing is a modern thriving metropolis with 2500 years of history. In short, this is a very different
culture. I write these posts as much to
keep myself keeping track of my experiences as anything, with the faint hope
that someday I might make more of it.
Still, whether I do or not, I enjoy this way of keeping track, and I hope
you do too. My posts are also on the
inappropriately sub-titled http://lemonsrsweet-thnk-write.blogspot.com/ . I have posted my photos
there, and on Facebook.
So many
things we take for granted as being the way things are, are not. Many are such small things, but when put
together in a day, are a lot to get used to, and can be stressful. It’s different if the changes are things one
notices and that, in a week or two, will return to “normal” when you “get
home”. They are the little things one
must adapt to. They reach into every
nook and cranny of life. It may take
several entries, over time, to cover them all.
Reviewing past updates, I see that I went on and on. So, I will try to focus on one area of
existence in a posting. This time, my
apartment and getting food.
My apartment
is really little different in many respects from what one would be in a Canadian
city. (see photos).
But the payment of rent, and negotiations with the landlord are different
in many respects. That being said, it’s
been a long time since I was a tenant, dependent on someone else for any changes
or improvements, so maybe things have changed in Canada, too. To begin, I had to pay four months of rent,
or the equivalent thereof, in advance.
Three months was rent, .5 month was the damage deposit, and .5 month was
the real estate agent’s finder’s and maintenance fee. The School actually absorbed this last
cost. My apartment is 98 sq m, the same
1054 sq ft area as the house I co-paid for in Mill Woods in Edmonton, and nearly
300 sq ft. bigger than the Bonniedoone house I shared with Che and Xian, main
floor only mind you. The landlady
claimed the place usually rents for 6500 Rmb, whereas I am paying 5000. My neighbour tells me the 5000 is much more
in keeping with the market, even at this complex which was built in 2005 and
then made quite a splash on the market.
It is still nice, but not flashy, except for the grounds.
Back walkway |
exercise on the back entrance walkway |
Pretty Posies |
Considering the grounds at my complex, I would gladly pay 1.8 or even 2.5 if necessary. They are lush with trees and flowers, water features with fish hiding, labyrinthine walkways, exercise spots and three communally fed cats, Orangey, Gray Tabby and Splotchy.
Gray Tabby at the Tennis Basher's and Tai Chi spot |
My Master Masseuse, 3 beds, 10 hrs a day, 6 days a week, |
Gate and Guard, some polite and welcoming, some dour and bored |
Within five minutes’ walk along any of three side streets are shops selling everything from household goods to sweaters, florists, tailors, masseuse, fruits, bakeries, and the best chestnut roaster in all of Nanjing – or so we claim.
Chestnuts, the best in the area |
There is a major marketplace just below street level which, in addition to household goods, also sells fresh produce and meat, dead or alive, butchered on the spot if you want. Unfortunately, there is little ventilation and the most unappetizing smell from those tiny bits of super-aged meat that falls in cracks and crannies wafts, unappetizingly, out into the street. Nonetheless, curiosity got the better of me and I braved descending into its depths, to find fresh meat and veges, and very friendly venders calling out hello, hello, and what is your country?
Fresh, fresh veges
|
seafood, florist, households |
Suguo, family arrives for shopping, 3 to an e-bike very common |
In Canada, a tenant has the initial 30 days in which to revise the damage inspection report. Being impulsive, and anxious to get settled in before school started, and just thankful this place was still available three days after seeing it, I took it, noticing only a few things that were problematic. Contrary to claims, the walls were not clean, nor the hood fan, and the fridge leaks. Apparently, Nanjing cooking is known for its oil, a fact that was noticeable in my first cleaning job!
First cleaning job, cleaning the clean hood fan |
Floors are
marble looking, ceramic perhaps, stone even.
My neighbour is appalled that I often go barefoot, saying I will catch my
death from walking on these cold stone floors, but I do not find them cold at
all. To conserve electricity, I often
have my a/c set to 24 degrees, quite warm really, and so the floors are
approximately that temperature too. I
turn it to 21 degrees by times. People
keep a supply of flip flops or slip-on footwear for guests. One leaves one’s street shoes outside the
apartment one visits, and wears the guest footwear inside. Seeing that I had only one pair of slippers,
Tian Lillian brought me two more pairs, gifts, and was happy when I turned off
the air conditioner. Insensitive, I did
not think to realize she would be cold in my 22 degree environment but I did
turn off the a/c when she said she found it cold.
When you
enter and switch on the electric lights you note the “up” is off, and “down” is
on. When you finish using the washing
machine, you turn off the power supply in the wall outlet, simply to conserve
latent electricity to the unit. You turn
off the air conditioner while you are out, and the heat in the winter. So, when I get home from work, I turn on the
air conditioner/heater and go out shopping while it cools off, or in the winter,
until the apartment heats up. Though many if most Chinese shut down the electric
breakers when they leave for the day, typically expats like myself, do not.
The kitchen
is small and poorly lit from a heavily screened recessed window in an
alcove. There is no oven but rather the
stove is what is referred to as a two burner gas “hob”. Cupboard space is very minimal as most people
obtain the bulk of their meals in the street, and little.
Indeed, I most often get breakfast on the way to work,
red bean steamed buns, or sesame covered fried ones, and lo and behold, tho a
little out of the way, bing, the wonderful honey sweetened bread we used to
have daily in Xuzhou so long ago, baked clinging to the walls of a 45 gallon
cooking drum, blackened and scraped clean with a coiled steel scrubber after
each baking. The fridge is half freezer. A colleague bought a portable but full oven,
most buy toaster ovens, the principal in his 6000 Rmb two floored suite has a
full oven. I haven’t decided what I will
do, but I am surprised at how much I miss baking. I’d got to the point with the B&B that I
thought if I never baked another muffin, it would be too soon. But I was given a delicious homemade pumpkin
and raisin muffin yesterday; it was soooo good it made me yearn for my own
rhubarb royales. But then I saw rhubarb
at the market today. All brown it was
and the yearning expired.
The dining area and living room form the common area of the apartment, about 3.6 m X 7 m. The bedrooms each have a closet and plenty of room to get around the queen beds. There is a washing alcove in the hall preceding the toilet/laundry room. The toilet, thankfully, is a non-aiming, non-squatting, western standard, i.e. no bidet. There are sufficient lines and hangars on the balcony for several loads of washing, the products of the apartment sized front loading washing machine. The middle class do not have driers; wash boards are sold for 20 Rmb so I count myself very lucky indeed.
The dining area and living room form the common area of the apartment, about 3.6 m X 7 m. The bedrooms each have a closet and plenty of room to get around the queen beds. There is a washing alcove in the hall preceding the toilet/laundry room. The toilet, thankfully, is a non-aiming, non-squatting, western standard, i.e. no bidet. There are sufficient lines and hangars on the balcony for several loads of washing, the products of the apartment sized front loading washing machine. The middle class do not have driers; wash boards are sold for 20 Rmb so I count myself very lucky indeed.
Living room seen from entry, slipper and shoe rack |
Living room, desk and a/c |
Dining Table and grape juice |
Bedroom, and walk around. |
Kitchen with "hob" |
Washing Alcove |
I so look forward to your feedback, and any questions or comments you have.
elaine
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